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St. Hilarion Castle

History of the castle

Byzantine rule

The mountain lookouts were built early in the 7 th century to resist against Arab raiders, similarly like Buffavento and Kantara Castle . The first proofs to the castle date back to 1191. St Hilarion was one of the last taken by the Crusaders at that time. During Byzantine era were built major fortifications.

Frankish period

Under the rule of Lusignans, St Hilarion became a conflict of interests of a four-year struggle between Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II and Regent John d' Ibelin for control of the island, ended in victory of John's army at the battle of nearby Ag ídra (at present A girdag ) in 1232. During the following 140 years of peace, there were added royal apartments for the knights as well as the cisterns to collect water and chapels for worship. The castle served both as a summer palace for the knights practicing their martial skills on the jousting grounds, and too a refuge from the plague during 1349-1350.

Genoese

When the Genoese invaded in 1373, the castle again acquired military significance as the retreat of under-age King Peter II. His uncle and regent John of Antioch was misled by his evil scheming sister-in-law Eleanor of Aragon. After she persuaded him that his bodyguards of Bulgaria were treasonous, prince had them thrown one by one from tower now known as Prince John's tower.

Venetians

After the Venetians took over the island in 1489 they dismantled the castle considering it worthless in warfare as it would not have withstood the power of cannon. They left the castle crumbling, unwanted and uninhabited.

Turkish Cypriots military army

In 1964 the beleaguered Turkish Cypriots found the castle useful, it served as headquarters of their main enclave which included several Turkish communities on the main Kyrenia-Nicosia road. With a small garrison, teenage TMT (Turk M üdafaa Teskilati) activists were able to take control of the castle and successfully face attacks by EOKA. Passage on the traditional main highway prohibited Greek vehicles, and possible only in slow, UN-escorted convoy. The central government was then forced to build a bypass via Be sparmak (Pentadactylos). On early July 20, 1974 St Hilarion and its surrounding enclave were a primary landing goal of Turkish paratroop.

Castle tour

Built in three separate parts each of them self-contained, the castle was inhabited by community of servants, knights, nobles and royalty bound to the selected parts. The three parts of the castle blend into the rocky landscape upon which it has been grafted.

Lower ward

Visitors enter by the barbican and the main gate beyond the ticket booth into the lower ward, which served formerly as the main garrison and stabling area . One can notice that the wood-and-plaster work has traces of the 1995 bush fire in Kyrenia . On main entrance there are some fine carvings. Outer bailey wall has battlements linked by six semi-circular towers and a walkway for the guards between each tower. The lower ward was once used for armoury and stores. After entering the main gate the path climbs to the left and follows a course along the line of the southernmost battlements. Underground on the left there is a large cistern , and another one is situated as the pathway turns to the right, together with stable block.

Middle ward

A meandering path leads visitors up to the second ward. On the right are two flights of steps, the first will take you to the floor above the entrance gate and provides a good vantage point over the lower ward. With the second staircase you reach the Byzantine church which is an earliest structure in the castle. After the restoration, the frescoes remains on the walls are still dimly visible. On the outer wall at the western end, the French additional masonry has been broken away and through the gaps one can see the colours of some late Byzantine wall paintings. The chapel was used for Catholic worship by the French and it has several small rooms leading off it: sacristy, confessional and private chapel. Middle ward also include the monastic refectory , later a royal banqueting hall. At the eastern end of the passage there is the vaulted belvedere , the place where ladies would sit and watch the knights on the jousting ground performing their martial art below. Doorways lead off into small chambers, and staircase lead round the walls of the apartments, at present they are largely roofless. There are a couple of latrine rooms on this route. Following the steps higher, one can admire a spectacular view over the Kyrenia coast. After descending the stairs there are situated storerooms and barracks on the right. When you take a few steps the path continues upward to an enormous cistern for the storage of vital water that was built partly into the face of the mountain and on the eastern side is supported by massive buttresses.

Upper ward

The route to the upper ward is long and winding. Just before reaching the entrance arched gate to the topmost section of the castle, there is a junction. If you go left there is Prince John's tower that is worth visiting. According to the legend, Prince John of Antioch was given the remark by Queen Eleanor that Bulgarian guards were planning to kill him. John, blindly persuaded about the treason had them thrown over the steep cliff to their death, the tower bearing his name. The main entrance is guarded by a strong gate and around the courtyard are more royal apartments , kitchens and ancillary chambers. Returning to level ground the path passes a fenced-in aqueduct and cistern full of mud-puddle and leads into only relatively intact buildings that comprised the royal apartments on this level. These are the remains of the Great Hall , above is the boudoir of the plotting Queen Eleanor. The panoramic view through the Queen's window, carved in the Gothic style, is splendid indeed. If by this time you have any breath left, it is relaxing just to sit and gaze out over the countryside towards the mountain village of Karaman and the coastline of Kyrenia which is 730m lower in elevation. If the day is clear you can spot the Taurus Mountains in Turkey , more than 70km away.